Travelling to Guatemala is quite unusual here. Guatemala is not yet a popular destination for Quebecers, yet it has a lot to offer.
Between the volcanoes, the beach, the jungle, the colonial cities, the Mayan sites, the natural monuments, Guatemala will surely charm you.
To get there, you’ll have a stopover to plan. Several choices are available to you including stopovers in one of the American cities (Washington, Chicago, New York City, Miami, etc) or through Mexico.
Multiple companies offer flights to Guatemala city, it’s up to you to see what miles you have:
Feel free to look at through the website of flightconnections the different flight options.
In order to discover all of Guatemala, I recommend 3 weeks.
Departure Bacalar → Flores (3 nights) → Lanquin → Semuc Champey (3 nights) → Antigua (4-5 nights with discovery of the Acatenango Volcano) → Lake Atitlan (4-5 nights) → El Paredon (3-4 nights).
If you’re running out of time, I suggest you leave out Flores and El Paredon.
From Bacalar in Mexico, Flores was my first destination in Guatemala. I took a direct bus from Bacalar to Flores.
Departure: 8 am – Arrival: 8 pm
I had to cross the borders of Mexico, Belize and Guatemala by land. The passage is very well done and the wait wasn’t very long. The indications were quite clear and I felt safe throughout the process.
It was a long day’s travel but the views were superb.
I really liked Flores, it’s very nice, small and a good place to relax. On the other hand, if you run out of time, I would tell you to leave it out of your itinerary simply because it is quite far from Antigua and Semuc.
Flores is a very small island. It’s only a 20-minute walk around it. A perfect place to relax.
Flores is surrounded by Lake Peten Itza. You will see many water taxis. You can visit a zoo, go to the beach and relax on the other side of the island at Jorge’s Rope Swing. You can also rent kayaks to discover the island by yourself.
Small economic trick: if there are enough people, find a group to accompany you on the boat. You will then be able to negotiate 35 QTZ (6 CAD) per person and the driver will take you where you want and wait for you to return.
It’s the perfect place to watch the sunset. They have a rooftop terrace. There’s also a happy hour.
The service is super slow but I think it’s the same everywhere, you just have to get used to it. They serve pizza, nachos, a shawarma sandwich and it was very good.
Transportation and guide: 100 GTQ (17 CAD) Park entrance: 150 GTQ (25 CAD) It’s possible to go around at sunrise and sunset for an extra 100 GTQ since it’s outside business hours.
The best months to do this are from December to April.
I’ve set a departure time of 4:30. Arrival at the park at 6 am. The guided tour ends at 11am or you can stay longer until the next shuttle bus. This is the ideal time because there are not yet too many visitors, it also avoids the period when the sun is more intense. I suggest you bring a lunch because they only sell sandwiches or snacks on the site and it’s quite expensive.
I must confess that I hesitated a lot before going to Semuc. The watchtower was closed when I went there and I thought it was a long drive for a few nights. In the end, I don’t regret my choice at all. Semuc is indeed a must.
From Flores to Semuc:
Duration: 9-10 hours, if all goes well…
Towards the end, it is a zig zag dirt road in the mountains and if it rains the bus may have trouble getting over the last hill. The ferry may have broken down.
Knowing this, just expect a longer drive, relax and enjoy the view!
You have the option of staying at Lanquin or Semuc. From Lanquin, it takes another 45 minutes in a pickup box to get to Semuc. Given the 9-12 hours it takes to get to Lanquin, I suggest you stay there. In addition, there is a small village in Lanquin which gives you a little more choice in terms of restaurants. Whereas at Semuc, you are a little busy eating at your accommodation.
If you stay a few days in Lanquin, you can also go tubing on the river.
I paid 195 QTZ (34CAD) for the tour.
This included:
The cave was a really entertaining experience. You go down there with a candle, try to swim with one hand and move around without seeing anything. You can climb and jump in deep water. The feeling is very special and quite amusing.
You may have read other stories that said it was dangerous, but I felt safe all the time. The guide will tell you where to be careful and how to reach things, I felt confident with him and he would never push us to do anything we were not comfortable with. There are also ropes to help you swim when you can’t touch the ground.
Water shoes and life jackets are available for hire at the entrance.
After the cave, you’ll visit some waterfalls. You will also be able to jump into the water on a swing. A little advice, don’t make my mistake and make sure you get your butt out of the swing and slide instead of jumping! I’m slipping a picture of my Jane fall into the jungle that I find hilarious. There is also the possibility of jumping off the 12 meter high bridge, nobody in my group had the courage to do it!
Unfortunately, when I was here, the viewpoint was closed, so I didn’t have access to the view from the top, but going from one natural pool to another was a lot of fun! Keep in mind that it’s very slippery! I strongly recommend water shoes. You can end the visit with a nice free pedicure from the little fishes in the last bath. The trip in the box of the pickup to get there and back is also part of the adventure of the tour, the jungle views are magnificent.
Finally, even if I didn’t have the chance to admire the view from the watchtower, Semuc Champey is definitely one of Guatemala’s “must”, it’s really splendid and spending a few days in the jungle is also very pleasant and relaxing.
By bus from Lanquin to Antigua:
Cost: 140 qtz (24CAD)
Departure 8:00 am Arrival around 6:30 pm
To get to Antigua, you have to go through Guatemala City, which you will reach around 5pm, so expect traffic, we lost about an hour there when I made the trip.
Antigua is a very pleasant city to stay in, but it is very touristy and not very ‘typical’.
It is also the starting point for the Acatenango volcano.
The city of Antigua is famous for its many Spanish schools. It was imperative for me to speak Spanish on this trip. So I did a week’s stay with a family and 5 days of Spanish classes at Antiguena school.
Price: 185 USD
This comes down to $35 CAD/day.
Note that the homestay is more like a Bed and Breakfast. At least as far as my family was concerned, they didn’t eat at the same time as us. The meals were varied. The material the school provided was good. I’ve made good progress though, 4 hours of school a day is very demanding.
Cerro de la Cruz overlooks the city, perfect for a view of the city and the volcanoes. About 30-40 minutes walk from the center. A good place to do your morning workout with the stairs. Be careful after sunset, don’t wait too long to come back. Bring your own drinks and enjoy the view.
I love to do the markets when I travel. It gives a better image of the culture and you save money.
Go there on Monday, Thursday, Saturday for fresh fruits and vegetables.
Antigua has a range of interesting restaurants to try. The majority of the top-of-the-line are located on Avenue 4.
Café Bella Vista
It was my favorite place to study. The view is superb and the coffee is delicious. Cakes too :).
Fernando
Very well known for its coffee and chocolate. The terrace at the back is also cute.
El Barrio
4 bars in 1, each with a different theme.
Monday: ladies night (3 free drinks) is well worth it.
Lake Atitlan is one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, surrounded by volcanoes and therefore worth a visit.
El Paredon is a very quiet seaside town still protected from mass tourism.
You can enjoy these beaches or discover the hatching of turtles that will then head to the sea.
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