North India Travel Guide

North India Travel Guide

I had wanted to visit this mythical country for years, a place that seems to leave no one indifferent.

By January 2020, I was ready. I had mentally prepared myself to find overcrowded cities where I would witness social inequality, poverty, begging children, questionable sanitation, and I had even accepted that someone might try to grope me on the trains. I had thought through all of this because I know India often shocks travelers and then polarizes opinions. I really wanted to love India, because it has so much to offer, far more than its flaws.

I can reassure you right away: I was never in danger, and no one ever tried anything inappropriate. When I accidentally wandered into a neighborhood that wasn’t recommended, locals immediately told me to turn back for my own safety. In fact, more often than not, people wanted to help me.

They negotiated on my behalf, showed me the way, or waited with me at the bus stop to make sure I got on the right one. Indian people are curious. They’ll talk to you, greet you, stare at you intently, take photos with you, and get involved in your life even if you never asked for it. If you’re hoping to keep a low profile, forget it. Embrace this cultural exchange.

Here’s an overview of my short three weeks in this extraordinary country. If you’re getting ready to head to India, be prepared to make choices, because the distances are vast and transportation isn’t always fast. Personally, I had to skip Varanasi, Udaipur, and Jaisalmer, all popular with tourists and all places I heard great things about.

The best advice I received about India was simply to take the time to stop and observe. So many things happen at once in this country that simply watching life unfold is probably the most beautiful thing you’ll see.

Free Hotel Nights In India

India has more than 130 Marriott Bonvoy properties, so you can easily use points to book free hotel nights during your trip.

Jean-François, for example, shared several photo reports from his stays at Marriott Bonvoy hotels in India:

• Review: Aloft New Delhi Aerocity
• Review: Le Méridien New Delhi
• Review: JW Marriott Hotel Mumbai Sahar

Check out this article to find out how to earn Marriott Bonvoy points and save on accommodations during your trip to India.

New Delhi

New Delhi is massive, and it feels like there will always be more corners left to discover.

Hiring a guide for a few hours to explore on foot is a must if you want to learn about the city and catch details you’d otherwise miss. Personally, I found a student online who offered guiding services in exchange for tips.

It came in handy for navigating the bazaars and markets of Old Delhi.

Several religions coexist in New Delhi, so a number of temples rank among the city’s must-see sights.

• Akshardham Temple

This was definitely my favorite of them all for its beauty and intricacy. Every stone is engraved and carved, so much so that two eyes aren’t enough to take it all in. Cameras and phones are banned inside. You have to leave everything at the entrance, so the only photo you’ll get is the one they sell at the end of the tour. For everything else, you’ll simply have to soak up the moment.

• Lotus Temple

It first dazzles you with its unique lotus-shaped architecture, then with the serenity you find inside. This temple enforces a strict silence rule, which makes for an almost unbelievable contrast with the rest of the bustling city. A true little haven of peace.

• Jama Masjid Mosque: the largest mosque in the country.

You can visit the inside, though part of it is off-limits to women who aren’t accompanied by a man. Outside, from the top of its steps, you’ll get a view over the chaotic bazaar at the foot of the mosque.

• Red Fort

Right across from the Jama Masjid mosque stands the Red Fort. Often described as the city’s main attraction, the site is large and takes a good two hours to visit.

• Iskcon Temple

A temple belonging to the Krishna sect. The building itself isn’t impressive, but during my visit, a woman was chanting hypnotic prayers, worshippers were praying while turning in different directions between prayers, and I sat down with women who were stringing together flower garlands. The experience was worth it for me.

• Gandhi Smriti

This site was the last home where Gandhi lived, and where he died. You can walk from room to room and learn about the man. Don’t confuse it with the Gandhi Museum, which is in a different location.

The Taj Mahal And Surroundings

As one of the 7 Wonders of the World, the Taj Mahal was definitely one of the reasons behind my trip to India.

As one of India’s great emblems, I had high expectations for this place, and they were met. To me, it’s a majestic work of art. It fascinated me, and even after visiting, I kept looking for another spot to view it from a different angle. Picking a rooftop restaurant to watch the sunset over the Taj Mahal is an absolute must.

Agra has other worthwhile attractions too. I’d suggest hiring a tuk tuk taxi for the day: the driver will wait for you between visits, and the price is affordable.

Tips For Visiting The Taj Mahal

• Plan your visit: the site is closed on Fridays.
• Arrive the day before your visit so you’re ready early in the morning.
• Buy your ticket online to get an internet discount and skip the ticket-counter line.
• To have fewer people in your photos, choose the 6 AM ticket slot and arrive 45 to 60 minutes early. My friend and I were the first ones at the gate.
• There are 2 gates with ticket counters. I chose the East Gate because it was closer to my accommodation, but I got the impression either one works just as well.
• There are several waiting lines at each gate, so make sure you pick the right one. Men and women are separated, as are Indian nationals and foreigners. Choose the correct line: the tourist line fills up fast.
• Having a printed copy of your ticket makes entry easier. The electronic version was hard for them to scan.
• Almost everything is banned at the Taj Mahal. So if you bring prohibited items, you’ll need to make an extra stop at the cloakroom. Keep it to the essentials: ticket, cash, phone, camera. Among the banned items: tripods, headphones, food, phone chargers, and any other electronics. Check the official website for more details.
• Once you’re inside, you’ll walk up to the arched gateway that finally reveals the Taj Mahal. My advice: don’t stop there, since it isn’t the best vantage point. Head straight for the Taj Mahal while it’s still empty or nearly empty. You’ll have the chance to come back to the entrance gate later.
• Once you’ve got the perfect shot, take a moment to soak in the details. Everything is stunning: the doors, the windows, the ceilings, and even the view.
• A bottle of water is included with your ticket. If, like me, you rushed to be first on-site, grabbing the water bottle probably won’t be a priority. Just know it’s not too late to pick it up at the end of your visit.

During my visit to the Taj Mahal, seeing the place almost empty really mattered to me, both to enjoy it fully and to take beautiful photos. Arriving an hour before opening, we truly had the place to ourselves. That said, I’d say that about 30 minutes before entry time, organized groups were already starting to line up.

When the gates opened, validating our electronic ticket took a while, and several people from other lines got in ahead of us. We were frustrated, but everyone fell into the same trap of stopping at the very first glimpse of the palace. That let us get our perfect photo and have a few seconds alone with this wonder of the world. You don’t have to do it exactly the way I did, but my thinking was: if you’re going to wait in an endless line anyway, you might as well wait before the line forms and reap the benefits.

• Agra Red Fort

It’s the largest fort in India and part of the UNESCO World Heritage list. It also offers a view of the Taj Mahal.

• Itimad-ud-Daulah Mausoleum:

With a name that complex, it’s no surprise tourists renamed it: the “Baby Taj Mahal” looks similar to the wonder of the world, though it doesn’t quite match its beauty.

Jaipur

Jaipur is known as the Pink City because of its city center, painted entirely in that color.

I found it to be the best place to shop, since the main streets are packed with small stalls and bazaars. There are also several well-known and lesser-known attractions bundled into a two-day “composite ticket,” which you can buy directly at the tourist sites. I used mine to visit Amber Fort, Jantar Mantar, the Palace of Winds, and Isarlat.

On top of these spots, there’s also the City Palace, which I skipped for lack of time but which, by all accounts, is magnificent. I did, however, stroll through the Monkey Temple.

• Amber Fort

The site is huge and takes a long time to visit. Some of the rooms are very well preserved, and the ramparts are impressive.

• Palace Of Winds

Also known as Hawa Mahal, this is another Indian landmark that had captured my imagination. I was really looking forward to visiting this place because of its history and its design, which allowed women to observe outside life without being seen.

• Isarlat

A tower that stands at the center of the city and offers a great view. It’s not worth paying for on its own, but if you visit it as part of the combined ticket, it’s worthwhile.

• Jantar Mantar

The site is an astronomical observatory, which made for a nice change from all the palace and temple visits. Touring it with a guide would be ideal, since the information panels are quite brief.

• Monkey Temple

I chose to visit this temple because it sat on a hill at the edge of the city and offered a beautiful view over Jaipur.

If you’re up for it, catch a movie at the famous Raj Mandir cinema, which is worth seeing on its own. The films are in Hindi only, but it’s fun to watch how other nationalities behave in a movie theater. It was an interesting experience, and my film was “Street Dancer,” so let’s just say you didn’t need the words to follow along.

Ranthambhore National Park

From Jaipur, I also took a day trip to Ranthambhore National Park. The park is known for offering safaris at prices far lower than in Africa. In fact, several parks do this across India, but this one was more convenient geographically.

That said, don’t expect to see the “big 5” like in Africa. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot a tiger; otherwise, it’ll mostly be monkeys, antelope, deer, and other four-legged animals. The scenery is still quite lovely, though. There’s a morning safari and an afternoon one. If you leave Jaipur in the morning, you’ll end up on the afternoon tour before heading back in the evening.

Pushkar

Pushkar is a charming stop if you’re making the drive between Jaipur and Jodhpur. Known as a pilgrimage destination, it has a sacred lake right at the heart of town.

Two hills, one on each side of Pushkar, offer a perfect vantage point for sunrises and sunsets. One of them is accessible by cable car. I’d recommend a 24-hour stop to explore this small town on foot.

Jodhpur

The Blue City deserves a short stop too. Its main attraction is a massive fort perched on a rocky hill, visible from everywhere in Jodhpur.

The various open-air markets were fascinating too, since I got to watch artisans at work with their traditional, if not rudimentary, tools. While wandering around, stop by the clock tower, Gulab Sagar Lake, and the “stepwell.”

Rishikesh

After two weeks of temples, forts, and palaces in bustling cities, I felt the urge to escape further north, toward nature.

Knowing myself well, I had a feeling Rishikesh would become my favorite spot. A popular destination for yoga retreats, with a zen atmosphere, a gateway to the Himalayas, and crossed by the Ganges River, it’s my dream destination!

Even without committing to a full yoga retreat, you can drop into classes covering different styles of yoga, meditation, sound healing, Indian music, and more. Several wellness centers also offer body treatments and massages.

For the more adventurous, you can go rafting on the Ganges, check out the waterfall just outside town (a must in my opinion), or book a short or medium-length trekking expedition in the mountains.

Beatles fans will get the chance to visit the ashram they once stayed at. At sunset, take in a traditional ceremony on the banks of the Ganges. Finally, Rishikesh is the perfect place to simply unwind and read for a while over a cup of chai tea in one of the cafés lining the river.

Personally, I did a 3-day, 2-night expedition in the mountains, and I loved it! The postcard-worthy views took my breath away. We ate and slept in small villages along the way.

All the gear was provided so we wouldn’t get cold. They’re well prepared to handle unprepared tourists who decide on a whim to head off on an adventure. The rafting itself was fun but not very intense; let’s just say it’s a family-friendly ride where you won’t fall in.

That doesn’t mean you’ll be spared any mishaps, though. In my case, our driver got lost, then we broke down, and just as we were setting off with the raft, one passenger realized he’d forgotten a paddle after the equipment truck had already left, and finally, one participant got seasick.

Tips And Advice

VISA

You can apply for your visa on the government website. Start by checking what you’ll need so you’re ready when you apply. Among other things, you’ll need a digital photo.

Keep in mind that your arrival date in India isn’t necessarily the same as your departure date from Montreal, especially if you fly overnight. Also, your official port of entry won’t necessarily be your final destination. For example, I had a flight to New Delhi with a layover in Mumbai first, so I actually entered the country through Mumbai, and the same applied on my way back out.

When you apply online for your visa, you’ll receive an acceptance email. That is not your visa! You have to go back to the government website with your application number, and that’s where you’ll see your issued visa: the document with your photo on it. You absolutely must print it, because you might be asked to show it before even boarding your flight in Canada. You could be denied boarding in Montreal.

In my case, I wasn’t asked anything in Montreal, but rather during my layover in New York, where they stamped my ticket as proof that I had an entry visa.

Print all your documents before you leave. Especially your plane tickets and your visa. India can be quite old-fashioned and often poorly organized, but security is everywhere. It’s impossible to enter the airport without proof of your flight ticket. The same goes for switching terminals: you have to show security that your next flight actually departs from that zone.

Getting Around

The New Delhi metro is modern and very efficient. I’d recommend it for getting around the city. It also has a section reserved for women, which can feel reassuring.

Booking a train ticket can get complicated, since there are several types of trains, various car classes, and multiple stations in each city. Take advantage of being at your hotel: the staff will be happy to book it for you. Otherwise, at New Delhi Railway Station, on the first floor, there’s an International Tourist Bureau that can help you out. Watch out! Some people may try to tell you it no longer exists or that it has moved. Ignore them and head upstairs. There are three main stations in Delhi, so pay close attention.

When booking a sleeper berth on the train, I’d suggest the upper one if you’re traveling solo, since the lower berth also doubles as a bench seat for everyone, so you can’t lie down until the others are done sitting.

Arrive early at the station, since it’s large and you’ll need to pass through security checkpoints. Once inside, keep an eye on the departure board, since train platforms change fairly often. Also, don’t expect trains to run on time. I got lucky myself, but delays are a regular occurrence in India.

Uber works in India, and you can even order a tuk tuk through it in some cities. Although most of the tuk tuks I booked never actually showed up, it still let me find out the average fare to wherever I wanted to go. All I had to do then was step outside and flag one down, putting me in a better position to negotiate. If you have no way to check the fare for a tuk tuk ride, cut in half whatever price you’re offered. Once you’ve agreed on a price, hold firm, since some drivers will try to raise it once you arrive.

In a taxi or tuk tuk, always ask for a direct route. Otherwise, drivers will stop at shops or stalls that pay them a commission. Usually, a simple no is enough to shut that down.

Can you eat anything in India?

I often read that avoiding meat was the way to stay healthy in India. I personally followed that advice and never got sick. I also dared to try some street stalls, like chai tea and lassi.

Can you get a SIM card in India?

Officially, tourists aren’t allowed to own a SIM card in India. Unofficially, you can walk into a telecom shop and they’ll provide you with one registered under someone else’s name. You’ll need to give them a copy of your passport, a photo, and fill out a form. The cost is around $10 to $12.

Points And Lounges During A Trip To India

I bought my plane ticket thanks to an amazing deal I found on Priceline.

With connecting flights from Montreal to New Delhi going for as little as US $350, it’s not worth burning your Aeroplan points. A bank rewards points redemption strategy, like with Scotiabank or HSBC, is a better move in cases like this. That said, since October 2021, non-stop flights between Montreal and Delhi with Air Canada do exist.

For domestic flights, I flew with Air India, which let me earn Aeroplan points. The same thing happened on my return flight, which Air India canceled and replaced with an Air Canada flight through London. In fact, if you can avoid Air India for international flights, I’d suggest doing so: they’re unreliable, and customer service is terrible.

Since then, Air India has undertaken a complete overhaul of its image and fleet. It now offers daily non-stop flights between Toronto and Delhi on brand-new 787-9 aircraft, bookable with your Aeroplan points thanks to its Star Alliance membership.

For my expenses on the ground, I used my Scotiabank Passport Visa Infinite +* Card to avoid conversion fees. That same card also came in handy for free access to airport lounges: Wingtips at JFK in New York, and the Travel Club lounge in Mumbai.

That last lounge is very strict about entry, only allowing access within 4 hours or less before your flight. Otherwise, both lounges offered wifi and a decent buffet. Special mention to Wingtips for its candy bar!

For the hostels I booked, I went through Rocketmiles to earn even more Aeroplan points.

Aeroplan points earned through flights: DEL-BOM = 354 JDH-DEL = 74 BOM-LHR = 4,482 LHR-YYZ = 4,433 YYZ-YUL = 79