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Nunavik is an administrative region of Quebec that is located at the northern tip of the province. This vast territory constitutes more than a third of the total area of Quebec with some 443,684.71 km2. The total population is 13,188, 90% of whom are Inuit and the main language is Inuktitut.
Please note that Nunavik and Nunavut are two separate entities. Nunavut is a self-governing territory located North of Quebec, while Nunavik is an integral part of Quebec.
It should also be noted that Inuit and Innu refer to two different peoples, both residing in Quebec. Indeed, the Innu are Aboriginal people living mainly on the North Shore (Côte Nord) and north of Lac St-Jean.
In this article, we will first deal with Nunavik as a geographical entity by exploring some basic characteristics of this large territory. Next, we will look at the different means of transportation that allow us to access Nunavik.
Finally, we will draw a portrait of the fourteen communities in this little-known territory by focusing on their socio-demographic characteristics, their accommodation facilities and their main tourist attractions.
N.B.: Photo of the article: A beautiful sunset in Kuujjuaq – Photo credit Maxence Chavanne
Nunavik is made up of 14 communities bordering Hudson Bay and Ungava Bay. These villages are only accessible by air, as there are no roads to Nunavik.
Transportation between Nunavik communities is also done by plane. The supply is done in the same way except during the summer when a large cargo ship comes to supply each community.
Nunavik can be divided into two distinct entities: the Ungava Bay and Hudson Bay communities. These are each made up of 7 villages.
Although the culture is similar, there are several distinctions, including the Inuktitut spoken (different dialects), local traditions and housing.
We will discuss the specificities of each of these 14 communities in the last section of this article.
Transportation between Quebec’s major urban centers and Nunavik is made possible by two airlines, Canadian North and Air Inuit.
It should be noted, however, that both carriers offer limited routes and only a few destinations are available to Canadian travellers.
Here is a brief description of the proposed itineraries.
Canadian North only serves one destination in Nunavik, Kuujjuaq. Flights to Kuujjuaq all originate in Montreal and are available once a day, every day of the week.
The planes generally have a capacity of about 60 people. The duration of the flight is approximately two hours and twenty minutes.
Canadian North is an Aeroplan partner. It is therefore possible to use loyalty points to pay for your flight. The number of points required for a round-trip flight to Kuujjuaq can vary, but is generally between 15,000 and 20,000 Aeroplan points.
Here is a round trip ticket I was able to obtain for 15,000 Aeroplan points in September 2020. I only had to pay for the surcharge ($150.00) and taxes ($50.87).
Canadian North also has its own loyalty program called “Aurora Rewards“. It is possible for you to systematically earn Aurora and Aeroplan points when you travel in the North.
If the double accumulation of points seems attractive at first glance, it must be remembered that the Aurora program is first and foremost oriented towards travellers who frequently travel to northern Canadian destinations and that the promotions linked to the use of points are very specific (discounts on transportation between two Nunavut communities, redemption of points at local grocery stores found only in Nunavut, among others).
In our opinion, it is not necessary to join this rewards program if you are not a frequent traveler to the North.
This airline offers flights to Nunavik through two major urban centers, Montreal and Quebec City. The aircraft used by Air Inuit can accommodate up to 60 people.
The final destinations from these two urban centres are as follows Kuujjuarapik, Puvirnituq and Kuujjuaq. However, there are some things to consider depending on the final destination chosen.
Kuujjuarapik
This Hudson Bay destination is only accessible by flight from Montreal. The duration of the flight is about two hours and has no stopover. It is interesting to note that you can also travel to this community throughAir Creebec, which provides transportation to the village of Whapmagoostui which shares the same land as Kuujjuarapik. However, this alternative will require several stopovers, notably in Chibougamau and Chisasibi.
Puvirnituq
This other Hudson Bay destination is only accessible by flight from Montreal. However, this flight has a short stopover in La Grande to refuel. The flight from Montreal to La Grande takes approximately one hour and forty-five minutes. The flight from La Grande to Puvirnituq takes about an hour and a half.
Kuujjuaq
Air Inuit serves the village of Kuujjuaq through Quebec City, as transportation from Montreal is already covered by Canadian North. The flight from Quebec City has a stopover in Schefferville. The flight from Quebec City to Schefferville takes approximately one hour and forty-five minutes. The trip between Schefferville and Kuujjuaq takes about an hour.
Unlike Canadian North, Air Inuit is not partnered with Aeroplan, which has a strong impact on the prices of the tickets offered… it can raise eyebrows.
Here are some simulations of one-way tickets for Montreal-Kuujjuarapik, Montreal-Puvirnituq and Quebec-Kuujjuaq.
Air Inuit’s reward program called “Isaruuk” is very restrictive and like Canadian North’s Aurora program, does not allow the accumulation of points to a large audience. Moreover, it takes a long time to accumulate the number of points needed to purchase an Air Inuit ticket.
As an indication, it takes more than 30,000 Isaruuk points to obtain a one-way ticket from Montreal to Puvirnituq. In my opinion, it is not necessary to join this program if you do not intend to travel regularly to Nunavik.
Here is a chart illustrating the accumulation of “Isaruuk” points according to the category of transport. It should be noted, however, that the program is currently undergoing a re-evaluation and that returns in terms of points will be reviewed in the coming months.
Transportation between the 14 communities of Nunavik is operated by Air Inuit and takes an average of 15 to 30 minutes between each community. The aircraft maximum capacity depends on several factors, such as the size of the community and the area served.
Thus, the vast majority of flights on the Hudson Bay offer a capacity of 60 passengers. The inter-village flights in Ungava Bay are very variable in terms of capacity.
Flights to Kangiqsualujjuaq, Kangirsuk, Quaqtaq and Kangiqsujuaq have a capacity of 40 to 60 passengers while flights to Aupaluk and Tasiujaq can accommodate 9 to 12 passengers!
It is also important to note that these flights are often subject to delays and cancellations due to the changing weather patterns in this region. It is also not uncommon for it to take several days to reach your final destination.
As an indication, I once had to wait a week to reach my final destination because of a persistent “blizzard” and high winds that made transportation impossible.
Please note that Air Inuit will rebook your itinerary at no charge in the event of a similar “weather situation”.
However, accommodation will be at your expense, whereas it is only covered by Air Inuit if the cancellation of transportation is due to technical problems (mechanical problems in particular). For more information on Air Inuit’s delay, cancellation and refund policies, please refer to this link.
In this section, I will review the different communities of Nunavik by looking at their socio-demographic profile, their main accommodations as well as their main tourist attractions.
This overview is subjective as it reflects my observations over the past six years, during which time I have had the opportunity to visit every community in Nunavik.
Without further ado, here is a more precise portrait of these communities that I have divided into two sections: the villages of Ungava Bay and those of Hudson Bay.
Kuujuaq or “the big river” has a population of nearly 3,000 and is the economic center of Ungava Bay. It is also the political capital of Nunavik where various large organizations such as Makivik Corporation, the Kativik Ilisarniliriniq School Board and the Nunavik Regional Board of Health and Social Services have their headquarters.
If you wish to stay in Kuujjuaq, you have three options.
Kangiqsualujjuaq or George River has a population of over 1,000 and the meaning of its name is “The Very Big Bay”. This community is located close to Labrador and shares strong ties with the three Inuit communities of this province: Nain, Hopedale and Makkovik.
If you wish to stay in Kangiqsualujjuaq, you have the option of staying at the Co-op Hotel. Room rates start at $195 per night. A collective kitchen is at your disposal as well as access to Niriviapik, a takeout style restaurant open on weekdays.
Tasiujaq, or the lake-like water body, has about 400 inhabitants. It is the second smallest community in Nunavik after Aupaluk. Interestingly, the village is located just north of the tree line in Quebec.
If you want to stay in Tasiujaq, you have the option of staying at the Iqaluppik Hotel. The cost for one night is $195. There is no community kitchen or restaurant in this facility. Food can be purchased at the local co-op.
Aupaluk or “Where the earth is red”, has 200 inhabitants. It is the smallest village in Nunavik. It should be noted that the establishment of this new village is very recent, while its official incorporation in Nunavik dates only from 1981.
If you wish to stay in Aupaluk, you have the option of staying at a co-op hotel. Room rates start at $195 per night. A collective kitchen is at your disposal. There are no restaurants in Aupaluk. However, you have the option of purchasing food from the local food co-op.
Kangirsuk or “The Bay” has about 600 inhabitants. This high altitude village is surrounded by several rock walls and is located on the north shore of the Arnaud River.
If you want to stay in Kangirsuk, you have the option of staying at the Co-op hotel. The cost for one night is $195. A collective kitchen is available. There are no restaurants in this community. However, it is possible to purchase food at the local community co-op.
Quaqtaq or “the place that looks like an intestinal worm” has about 500 inhabitants. This community is the birthplace of Inuit singer Beatrice Deer. The village is located on the eastern shore of Diana Bay.
Quaqtaq has two lodging places, the co-op hotel and theTuvaaluk hotel. These two places cost $195 for a night’s stay. A collective kitchen is available to tourists. However, there is no restaurant, so you have to go to the village’s food cooperative
Kangiqsujuaq or Wakeham Bay has a population of about 1,000. The meaning of its name is “The Great Bay”. This picturesque village is located 1km south of the Hudson Strait and at the mouth of Wakeham Bay.
Salluit or “Those who are thin” has more than 1,500 inhabitants. This village is where the Inuit singer Elisapie Isaac grew up. The village is located in Sugluk Fjord, 10 kilometers from Hudson Strait.
Salluit has one place to stay, the co-op hotel. The cost of a night’s stay is $195 to $209. A collective kitchen is available to the hotel’s occupants. However, there is no restaurant, so you have to go to the food cooperative.
Ivujivik or “Where the ice accumulates” has a population of just over 400. It is the northernmost village in Quebec, nearly 2,000 kilometers from Montreal! Off the coast of this village, there are powerful ocean currents caused by the collision between the waters of Hudson Strait and Hudson Bay.
Ivujivik has only one place to stay, the co-op hotel. The cost for one night is $195. A collective kitchen is available for the hotel’s occupants. However, there is no restaurant, so you have to go to the village cooperative to buy food.
Akulivik or “the place that looks like the central point of the harpoon in the shape of a trident”has over 700 inhabitants. The village is located on a peninsula between Hudson Bay and the Illukotat River. The community is surrounded by large rock walls, the Youville Mountains, which rise several dozen meters.
If you wish to stay in Akulivik, you have the option of staying in a co-op hotel. The cost for one night is $195. A collective kitchen is available. There are no restaurants in this community. However, it is possible to buy food at the local co-op or at the Northern convenience store.
Puvirnituq or “the place where there is a smell of rotten meat” has a population of over 1,800 and is the political center of Hudson Bay. The village is located on the north shore of the Puvirnituq River.
It is one of the three Nunavik communities that refused to ratify the 1975 James Bay and Northern Quebec Agreement.
There are two options if you wish to stay in Puvirnituq
Inukjuak or the giant is composed of more than 1,800 inhabitants and represents the economic center of Hudson Bay. The village is located on the banks of the Innuksuak River, which is known for its high flow rates and its upcoming hydroelectric project.
Inukjuak has only one place to stay, the co-op hotel. The price for one night is $195 and there is a collective kitchen accessible to all hotel users. However, there are no restaurants in the community. You can, however, buy food at the local co-op or Northern convenience store.
Umiujaq or “the place that looks like a boat made of walrus skins” is home to over 500 inhabitants. This community is located on the shores of Hudson Bay, opposite the village of Sanikiluaq which belongs to the Nuanvut. Interestingly, the village has many sandy beaches with shells; however, swimming is still dangerous as the water is freezing, even in the middle of summer!
There is only one place to stay in Nunavik, the co-op hotel in Umiujaq. The price for one night is $195. A communal kitchen is available to hotel guests. However, there are no restaurants in this community. Food is still available at the local food co-op and at the Northern convenience store.
Kuujjuarapik or “the beautiful big river” has 700 inhabitants. This community shares its land with the Cree village of Whapmagoostui and is located at the entrance to the Great Whale River. Hudson Bay is also close to this village.
There are two lodging options in Kuujjuarapik:
All in all, I can confirm that a trip to Nunavik is well worth it if only for the extraordinary cultural experience it provides. I would also add that the richness of this trip lies in the warm welcome of the Inuit. Indeed, although reserved by nature, they quickly show great generosity and openly and humbly share with us the riches of their territory.
I believe that the exorbitant prices for air travel and accommodation in particular, could slow down many. However, I am pleased to inform you of recent government talks aimed at making transportation and accommodation more affordable in Nunavik. These discussions, which are currently in their infancy, are aimed at significantly reducing these costs before 2024. So there is hope!
In the meantime, you can still travel to Kuujjuaq with Aeroplan points and try the “nunavik” experience.
Savings this way:
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