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It had been my daughter’s dream since she was 3 years old to go to Hawai’i. So I surprised her with an 8-day father-daughter trip to Maui. I am far from being a Hawai’i specialist; I know many people go there every year, but I thought it would be good to share my experience.
As I didn’t have enough Aeroplan points left and wanted to rebuild my points balance for a future trip, I paid for the tickets differently. Thanks to my TD Platinum Travel Visa* Card, I was able to book two tickets on Expedia for $700.31 each, totaling $1,400.62, and then I reimbursed myself $1,023 using my points. The flight for two people in economy class therefore cost me $377.62.
My itinerary included one flight operated by Air Canada and another by United. As a Marriott Bonvoy Titanium Elite member, I took advantage of the status match offered on the United website to obtain Premier Silver status. This status grants a free checked and priority bag, as well as access to EconomyPlus seats for two people. I also benefited from the partnership between Air Canada and Marriott Bonvoy to obtain 25K status, which allows for two checked bags. I therefore decided to bring my inflatable paddleboard for this trip, which gave me a lot of flexibility while saving on local rentals.
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I did a lot of research to find the right vehicle. I found the best price with Costco Travel, which allowed me to book a standard car with Alamo for 8 days for US$342.55. The rental center is at the airport; you just need to take a small tram to get there. Once there, you go to the line corresponding to your vehicle type and choose the one that suits you. There is no line for standard vehicles, so I was able to take a full-size vehicle.
There are also peer-to-peer rental options, notably with Turo. Be aware, however, that even if the indicated pickup location is at the airport, parking is a 20-minute walk away, or you have to take an Uber to get there. Personally, that discouraged me, so I preferred to rent with an established rental company.
Which vehicle to choose? The most common type is the Jeep Wrangler. It’s practical, goes everywhere, you can remove the roof, etc. However, some roads are very steep (like the Road to Hana) and the size of the vehicle can become a handicap. Also, a convertible can be interesting, but there are often sudden short showers, so think carefully.
For gas, I recommend going to the Costco in Kahului with a Visa card (ideally without foreign transaction fees). You’ll save about 20% compared to prices elsewhere.
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If you need to do some grocery shopping during your stay, the cheapest option is to go to Costco or Walmart in Kahului. If, like me, you are staying at a hotel and don’t have extensive needs, the most economical solution remains Safeway supermarkets. There’s a trick, however: the company often offers promotions for its members. Previously, you had to go through customer service to become a member for free. During my visit, I was simply asked for my phone number at the checkout, and the discounts were applied automatically. For example, I saw Envy apples advertised at $3.49 USD per pound for members, compared to $4.99 USD per pound at the regular price, a significant difference for a week’s groceries.
We now have very powerful tools to better plan our trips and be more prepared. You always have the option of reading books and websites to find out what to do, but why not use artificial intelligence? Several are available on the market, the most well-known being ChatGPT (OpenAI, 49% owned by Microsoft), Copilot (Microsoft), and Gemini (Google).
For my part, I prefer to use Copilot because I have a professional subscription with my employer, so I have easy access to it. You can try several and compare the answers; it’s always interesting. First, I give the tool basic information so it understands the situation as best as possible. Since it’s a conversational tool, you can always add details along the way.
It’s then time to refine the information to get something more interesting for your needs. You can ask it for a budget idea, more details on a part of the proposed itinerary, or ask it to change certain parts, add others, etc. Finally, you can also ask it what to bring, what to plan for, etc.
Personally, this is a tool I use a lot, especially for the initial plan. It’s thanks to it that I decided to bring my paddleboard, as it suggested several places where I could use it.
I highly recommend walking shoes, especially if you plan to explore a bit, as there are many hiking trails. Personally, I prefer to travel light, so I more easily opt for the hotel’s beach towel. At least I can change it more regularly when it’s dirty, and it’s always less laundry to do when I get home.
There is also an excellent app designed by a local, which allows you to discover all the most interesting places on each island. Although everyone speaks English there, the app can guide you by car and explain the history of a place, things to do, etc. There is also a book to guide you, if you prefer.
Since my daughter didn’t speak English well enough yet, I didn’t use the app. Instead, my wife created a map for me on Google Maps with the most interesting places. Google allows you to save the map offline, which lets you navigate without a connection. As I didn’t want too many distractions during this trip, I preferred not to have internet access on my cell phone, even though several inexpensive options are available.
For the stay, I had initially chosen to stay at the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa for the entire duration, but I ultimately made the wrong decision to split the stay in two and also go to the Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club. Be aware, however, that in Hawaii, having status doesn’t get you much.
These hotels are located in an area designated for hotels in Kāʻanapali. This area includes several hotel chains, a shopping center, and several restaurants. It is located right next to the town of Lahaina, devastated by the August 2023 wildfires. During our stay, we saw entire neighborhoods razed and undergoing reconstruction.
In terms of location, Kāʻanapali is in a less busy area of the island. Being on the west coast, the waves are smaller there. The downside is that most of the activities we wanted to do were on the other side of the island, which required at least a 1-hour drive to get there. During our stay, I drove an average of 200 km per day, knowing that there isn’t really a highway in Maui.
This hotel is beautifully located and well-secluded thanks to its volcanic rock cliff on one side of the beach, which allows for both protection from currents and marine exploration. A huge lazy river takes you to a deeper area. You can enjoy the lounge chairs, bar, spa, etc. Several sunscreen dispensing stations are found throughout the property, as well as cabanas for picking up your towels.
The room was 41,000 points per night. On the first night, the hotel offers valet service ($49 USD); for subsequent days, you can choose to self-park for $39 USD, but you then need to request a key to enter and exit the parking lot. Also, expect a daily resort fee of $40 USD. I had contacted the hotel before my arrival, having read that the hotel did not charge parking fees to Platinum members, but the policy has changed: only Ambassador members can now benefit from it. Furthermore, although it is a Sheraton, there is unfortunately no lounge available.
Upon arrival, you will receive a reusable water bottle per person, a shell necklace, and a bracelet serving as your room key. As a Titanium member, I also received a welcome gift accompanied by a note from the team, which is always appreciated. This gift has a name: a pū’olo, a small package of ti leaves tied together. The welcome note explained that the ti leaf holds an important place in Hawaiian culture: it is believed to possess mana, a protective power. I was able to use an upgrade benefit to get an Ohana Double suite including a living room with a sofa bed and a pull-down bed, a bedroom with two double beds (or a King), a large bathroom with a bathtub and shower, and a large balcony.
Served from 6:30 AM, as a Platinum Elite member or higher, you are entitled to two continental plates, or you can choose to upgrade to access the buffet (US$15). Personally, I found my plate very complete; we often saved fruit for a snack later in the day. Curiously, on the second day, I asked to replace the continental plate with a US$12 children’s breakfast for my daughter. I was still charged the US$12.
The hotel has several restaurants. As we were often on excursions, we only ate dinner once at the Cliff Dive Grill. The food was decent, but nothing exceptional.
At $40 USD per day, the hotel offers several activities. You can start the day with a yoga session, for example. A hula dance class is also regularly offered, or you can go feed the koi fish or make your own lei necklace. All activities are listed on the hotel’s website. I found the lei making to be an excellent activity: the setting is spectacular, and both children and adults enjoy it.
Furthermore, do not miss the torch lighting ritual on the cliff (Pu’u Keka’a) at sunset. Since 1963, every evening, a person climbs the rock, lights the torches, pays homage to the cardinal points, and dives into the water.
The Sheraton offers a dinner show called Lūʻau 3 to 4 times a week. The cost is US$198 per person aged 13 and over, US$100 per child aged 6 to 12, and it’s free for children under 6. For the record, when I booked for my 9-year-old daughter and myself, the person asked if my daughter could pass for under 6 to avoid paying. I mentioned that it was difficult since she is tall. He replied that it didn’t matter, that they usually didn’t check. Indeed, they didn’t check. That’s always a saving.
During this 2-hour dinner show, you’ll have access to an open bar, a buffet with a wide range of choices, activities, and, of course, the show. It traces the origins of Hawai’i, its people, and its culture. You can also do some activities, like a temporary tattoo, a bookmark, or games. It’s a nice activity, but the time difference quickly caught up with me.
Some rooms have a view of the Lūʻau stage. You will then have plenty of opportunity to enjoy it without paying.
For the last five nights, I chose the Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, located in the same area as the Sheraton. The hotel is currently undergoing renovations. Being a Vacation Club, it has no obligations towards Marriott elite members, and the staff makes that clear. It was a real disappointment after the stay at the Sheraton, and I bitterly regret having changed. The hotel only charges US$30 per day for parking and no resort fees. However, breakfast is not included, and there is no possibility of an upgrade. So I had a room with a “garden” view, but it was more of a view of the parking lot and trash cans.
Even if you mention needing a sofa bed for your child, the staff will not set it up, as this service is not part of their duties. In terms of ambiance, it’s more like an average all-inclusive style.
On the positive side, the room has a microwave, a fridge, a coffee machine, and a toaster, as well as a complete set of dishes. The hotel provides guests with a large laundry room and offers free laundry service. You will also find a few shops in the hotel for souvenirs or basic necessities. Finally, the hotel has several pools, hot tubs, and water games.
The hotel offers activities every day; the staff will provide you with the schedule upon arrival (popcorn or shaved ice distribution, movie night in the pool, etc.). In the welcome kit, you will find a card inviting you to see the Vacation Club team to get 500 Bonvoy points. As the hotel operates on a timeshare model, the staff will quickly offer you to attend a presentation to earn 50,000 Bonvoy points. You will also be given a card entitling you to discounts at restaurants and shops both within and outside the hotel.
The hotel has a Starbucks and a few restaurants. The Beach Walk Kau Kau To Go is, as its name suggests, a takeout restaurant with a few tables. Every day, it offers special menus, which the hotel staff will provide you upon arrival. We’re not talking fine dining here, but rather fast food.
The Lokelani Pool Bar is the bar located in the middle of the pool. Longhi’s is the slightly more upscale Italian restaurant at the resort. It serves American-style Italian cuisine. The portions are large, but I found it all rather expensive.
Located about ten minutes from the Kāʻanapali hotel zone, this trail of approximately 5 km allows you to explore the west coast of the island while observing local wildlife. The trail starts at Kapalua Bay Beach. You will find a small parking lot, but it fills up quite quickly; it is also possible to park on the street. The beach is very beautiful and allows for some marine exploration. We had the pleasure of observing our first turtles, including a baby that came within 5 cm of our face.
The walk on the trail is fairly easy and pleasant. The scenery is breathtaking: you’ll see waves crashing on the volcanic rock, it’s splendid. You’ll also see a spot set up for the ‘Ua’u kani (wedge-tailed shearwaters) to nest.
If you are looking for a spot to swim with young children, this is the ideal place. A shallow area is protected from waves by rocks. It is also a prime location for paddleboarding; I was told that during the season, you can see whales and dolphins in the distance. It is also a popular spot for local surfers: the waves are not big, but sufficient to have fun. You can even surf with your paddleboard. Be careful, however: the water is shallow and the ground is covered with rocks and corals. I recommend water shoes.
To reach the parking lot located in La Pérouse Bay, you must take a road that crosses the Ahihi-Kinau Natural Reserve. This road is built on a lava field, which is very impressive. It is also along this road that you will find the homes of personalities like Steven Tyler, Oprah Winfrey, or Jeff Bezos. It was on this road that I regretted, for the only time during the stay, not having rented an SUV, even though everything went well anyway. A large parking lot on a volcanic beach is at the end of the road; it seems to be a popular spot for dolphins, which appear quite early in the morning.
The approximately 6 km trail follows beaches at the beginning, then you find yourself, upon reaching the Hanamanioa Lighthouse, at the top of a cliff. It is very windy and the area is deserted. Shoes are preferable, as it is not very pleasant to walk on volcanic rocks. Take the time to observe the free-roaming goats and bucks, which blend into the landscape; you will see many, don’t worry.
During your walk, you’ll see a small path below through a forest that leads to Kiawe Beach. Bring your mask for some snorkeling, it’s really worth it.
Located right in the heart of the island of Maui in a state park, this site offers views of a 370 m-high pointed mountain. The place is culturally and spiritually significant, as it is the site of the Battle of Kepaniwai, where King Kamehameha I defeated the Maui army in 1790. Admission is paid ($5 USD per adult, plus $10 USD per vehicle for parking), and you must book in advance if you are not a Hawaii resident. I saw people simply park at the entrance to the park and walk a few minutes to save that amount.
Upon arrival, you will access a trail less than a kilometer long leading to a viewpoint over the valley and the mountain. It is also possible to take a “secret” trail: once you reach the viewpoint at the top, a sign on the left indicates that access is prohibited. Let’s just say that quite a few people venture there anyway; it takes you to a higher viewpoint. The path is sometimes steep and slippery, so be careful. Personally, I don’t particularly recommend it; it’s already beautiful enough from below.
The most interesting point of this place, in my opinion, is the waterfalls at the bottom. You can swim there, take photos, and foraging is allowed. We were able to eat fresh guavas: it was excellent.
In addition to the Pīpīwai and Kūloa trails (at the end of the Road to Hana), the other two activities at Haleakalā volcano are the sunrise and a hike into its crater.
Haleakalā is a highly visited volcano, peaking at 3,055 m (10,023 ft) in elevation. Its last eruption is estimated to have occurred between 1480 and 1600 according to the most recent radiocarbon dating, but it is responsible for forming a large part of Maui’s landscape. The volcano is a national park; therefore, you must purchase an entrance ticket for US$30 per vehicle for 3 days, or US$55 for the year. Evaluate your plans for the coming days to choose the correct ticket. Tickets are available online or directly at the entrance.
Sunrise is by far more popular than sunset. For sunrise, in addition to the entrance ticket, you will need to reserve a spot per vehicle, at a cost of US$1. Reservations can be made far in advance, and the limited spots fill up quickly. You can also check every morning at 7 AM: spots open up for the day after tomorrow, but they also go fast. For sunset, no reservation is needed, but arrive early, as the line at the park entrance can be long. In any case, check the weather before going up, even if it means making a reservation for another day: it’s a shame to wake up so early only to not see the sunrise once at the top. I know something about that.
To watch the sunrise, plan to arrive at least an hour beforehand. Also, bring all your snacks and food, as there is nothing to eat in the park. Dress warmly: it’s easily fifteen degrees colder at the top than at the bottom, and it’s extremely windy. A windbreaker, a raincoat, and warm clothes are good things to have with you.
Starting from Kāʻanapali, it takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes to reach the top of the volcano. Be careful on the road in the park: it can be slippery, and cows graze freely there. If you arrive early enough, you can admire the stars; I have rarely seen so many stars in my life, it was wonderful. At the summit, there is a glass-enclosed room for shelter, which allows you to watch the sunrise if you are too cold to stay outside. A park employee is present to answer your questions and, if you are lucky, will sing during the sunrise. Unfortunately for us, the wind picked up at sunrise and pushed the clouds over us. We couldn’t see the famous sunrise, but it was still a superb experience.
The Sliding Sands trail hike takes you into the heart of Haleakalā crater. It is 17.7 km long, with an elevation gain of 730 m. It takes 6 to 6.5 hours to complete. Bring plenty of water and food; apart from the beginning and end, there is only one cabin with a toilet, about 12 km in.
According to park employees, the best way is to go to the parking lot located about two-thirds of the way up the mountain, leave your vehicle there, and then hitchhike to the visitor center. Don’t be afraid: you are in a national park, and there are even signs indicating that hikers hitchhike. By doing this, your car will be there when you finish the hike, and you will have less elevation to climb on foot.
The hike is long, but the scenery is magnificent. You start with a long descent into the crater, in a landscape that sometimes resembles images we’ve seen of Mars. The further you descend, the more vegetation you’ll find. You’ll surely encounter nēnē geese on your path; be careful not to feed them or get too close, as they are very territorial. The end of the hike is quite intense, with a steep path on the mountainside. It’s truly a big favorite, especially for the landscapes. The path is long, but trust yourself: my 9-year-old daughter did it in 6 hours and 10 minutes. We finished the hike 3 hours and 30 minutes before taking off for our return flight.
The Road to Hana is a winding road on the northeast of the island. A nearly essential part of the trip, it allows for several stops to see or cool off in waterfalls, beaches, etc. I saw some very well-marked and paid waterfalls, like Twin Falls, but the parking was always busy and it felt like a very touristy activity. I can’t judge it since I didn’t do it, but there are many free-access waterfalls on this road.
It is also on this road that the famous Pe’ahi (Jaws) beach is located, where waves exceed 20 m every year.
The road is steep, and locals drive relatively fast (let them pass). Getting to the end easily takes 2 hours. It’s also the wettest part of the island, so expect some showers. Allow plenty of time for this road and make a few stops.
This beach, at the beginning of the Road to Hana, is very popular with surfers. During our stay, we were able to see some surfing competitions, which is very impressive to watch. This beach is also known because you can admire turtles that come to rest on the sand. Warning: the law in Hawai’i is very clear, you are not allowed to approach the turtles so as not to frighten them.
At the end of the Road to Hana, you can visit the lava tube. Admission costs $15 USD (cash) per person and is located on private property. You descend into a cave with flashlights (provided) and find yourself in a large underground lava tube. At one point, the walls of the tube resemble thousands of Hershey’s Kisses chocolates.
Before leaving, you can also do the maze set up by the owner. Honestly, I don’t think this activity is worth it, but to each their own.
This was one of my major highlights of the trip. Access is not easy: park on Hauoli Road, turn right on Uakea Road, and on your left, after the community center, you will see a yellow gate. That’s where the trail to get there begins. It only takes 5 minutes to walk the trail, but it is steep and a bit dangerous.
Once at the end, you’ll see a magnificent red sand beach protected by a barrier of lava rocks. Despite the big waves in the distance, the water was very calm in the basin; all the waves came crashing on the rocks. This paradise reminded me of the movie The Beach with DiCaprio. Fortunately, there was no shark.
The Pīpīwai Trail and the Kūloa Point Trail are located in Haleakalā National Park. You must therefore purchase an entrance ticket of US$30 per vehicle for 3 days, or US$55 for the year. It is recommended to arrive before noon, both to avoid the heat and to get ahead of the large wave of visitors. Bring something to eat, as there is nothing nearby.
The Pīpīwai Trail is an approximately 6 km hike (277 m elevation gain) that follows a stream and crosses a lush forest. You can admire some waterfalls and pools. Unfortunately, swimming is now prohibited there, so be patient if you get too hot. You will also cross a magnificent bamboo forest; if you are lucky enough to be there at a less busy time, you can listen to the wind in the clashing bamboos. At the end of the trail, you will arrive at the impressive Waimoku Falls, which is 122 m high.
The Kūloa Point Trail is much shorter: a loop of about 800 m. You can observe archaeological sites and a splendid view of the ocean and the raw landscape of this area. You may also have the chance to see a monk seal lounging on the beach.
My daughter insisted on going to the Maui Ocean Center. It’s a beautiful activity that clearly shows the diversity and fragility of the marine ecosystem around the Hawaiian islands. A large part of the visit aims to raise visitors’ awareness of this fragility, pollution, and risks. You can also learn more about the history of the First Nations and their culture. The visit ends with a very beautiful 3D film about whales. It is expensive: buy your tickets online (US$45) before coming, because on site, it’s more expensive. Parking is also paid on site, but it’s easy to find it on nearby streets.
We made a quick stop at the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary. Admission is free, and you can learn a bit more about the migration of these giant mammals. It’s also a place to observe them during their passage in the winter months.
During your stay, take the time to visit the small town of Paia. It’s an excellent place to find the small souvenirs you’ll bring back. Located at the beginning of the Road to Hana, this small town has several shops and restaurants.
Here is a list of restaurants we really enjoyed.
Located on Paia’s main street, Flatbread Company offers delicious pizzas baked in wood-fired ovens, in a relaxed setting. The company emphasizes its values: organic and local food, ecology, and social equity.
If you’re passing through Paia and want some good ice cream, step into Paia Gelato; you won’t regret it. Everything is homemade, and half of the choices are dairy-free. It’s also a good place to grab a sandwich.
If you’re staying in Kāʻanapali, you’ll often pass by this restaurant. Leoda’s is an institution in Maui, its reputation is well-established. The portions are generous; a sandwich and a side will be enough to fill you up. I loved the Seared Ahi sandwich, everything is fresh, a real delight. The restaurant is also known for its pot pies, which are indeed delicious. And what about the dessert display! You can eat in or take out, an excellent option when you’re going on an excursion.
If you don’t know where to eat in Kihei, stop by Miso Phat for a bite. This restaurant, visited by Chef Guy Fieri on his Food Network show, looks unassuming from the outside, but the quality of its sushi is impressive. The team focuses primarily on the freshness of ingredients to create exceptional sushi. Indulge in the TNT roll. However, you should expect to spend a certain amount, but quality and freshness come at a cost.
There are two Paia Fish Market restaurants: one in Paia, the other in Kihei (Paia Fish Market South Side). We only had time to eat at the Kihei one, but the menu is the same. The concept: fresh fish of the day, cooked the way you like it, with sides. Ask for recommendations on the fish and cooking style—the team knows what they’re doing. Try the tacos too, a real treat; the burgers looked delicious. The only thing I regret is not having seen sashimi on the menu when I ordered. My table neighbours had some, and I was a little jealous.
The Paia restaurant is located in the heart of the town, an ideal place for shopping. The Kihei one is located across from a large park and next to an artisan market where you can find all the gifts you want to bring back.
Located in a somewhat secluded corner of Kihei, Isana has an excellent reputation for the quality of its dishes. Unfortunately, the restaurant only opens at 3 PM, but the setting offers an exceptional atmosphere at sunset. It offers a happy hour menu from 3 PM to 5 PM and from 9 PM to 10 PM. If you’re willing to eat early, simply place your order before 5 PM to take advantage of it; the staff are very accommodating. It’s a great way to try their dishes at a lower price. Once again, the restaurant focuses on the freshness of its ingredients and offers Japanese cuisine blended with Hawai’i’s culinary tradition.
This father-daughter trip to Maui lasted 8 days, but it required several months of planning: status matches, rebuilding a points balance, choosing a hotel, and planning the Road to Hana itinerary. The flight paid for with my TD Platinum Travel Visa* Card, then reimbursed with my points, allowed me to save several hundred dollars on tickets. If you’re planning a similar stay, plan ahead: between national park entry tickets, sunrise reservations, and choosing the right hotel, every detail matters to fully enjoy the island.
To compare your travel card options before your next trip, visit our page on the best travel credit cards. And so you don’t miss any of our upcoming stories and deals, subscribe to our newsletter.
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For two people, the economy flight cost $377.62 after points redemption on a travel card, car rental was $342.55 USD for 8 days, and the room at the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa was 41,000 points per night. Resort and parking fees are extra.
Yes. Sunrise reservation spots fill up quickly, even if they can be made far in advance. Spots for the day after tomorrow become available every morning at 7 AM, but they go just as fast.
The Jeep Wrangler is the most popular choice, but its size can be a hindrance on steep roads like the Road to Hana. A standard vehicle booked with an established company (Alamo via Costco Travel, for example) remains a reliable and economical option.
Few, in fact. The status allows for a welcome gift and access to upgrades based on availability, but it does not guarantee a lounge or exemption from parking fees, which is reserved for Ambassador members.
An entrance ticket of $30 USD per vehicle (valid for 3 days) or $55 USD for the year is required. For sunrise, an additional $1 USD reservation per vehicle is also mandatory.
Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, Paia Fish Market, and Flatbread Company offer good value for money. Isana offers a happy hour menu from 3 PM to 5 PM and from 9 PM to 10 PM to taste its cuisine at a lower cost.
Kāʻanapali offers calmer waves and a well-developed hotel area, but most activities are on the other side of the island, which easily requires 200 km of driving per day.
Allow 6 to 6.5 hours for the 17.7 km and 730 m elevation gain. Getting dropped off at the two-thirds mark of the mountain’s parking lot by hitchhiking allows for less uphill walking on the return.
Savings this way:
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