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This was my first time in Western Canada, and it probably won’t be my last! Six days may not seem like a lot, but that’s all the time I had. I’ll be sharing the details of my itinerary and my budget. This trip is mainly focused on nature and the outdoors.
The Rocky Mountains are impressive and majestic! I always dreamed of reaching the summit of their magnificent glaciers. When you travel the roads of the west, your gaze will always be drawn to the mountains. We’re a long way from Montreal – Quebec!
The weather was not always on our side. Most of the things I set out to do, I didn’t get a chance to accomplish! We’d make our choices day by day and follow the sun.
Day 1 – Montreal – Calgary
Arriving at 11 a.m. gave us the whole day to do at least one activity, including our travel time.
We headed to Banff National Park, where our first night was booked. When we arrived at the park, we passed in front of Lake Minnewanka. I was already hooked!
Heading towards Two Jack Lake campground, the lake stretched out before us. Already, I found myself captivated by Western Canada!
Lodging in Banff National Park
We began by settling inton our luxury rustic campground: an oTENTik tent, previously booked on the Parks Canada website.
To book this type of accommodation, you must do so on the day booking opens. You’ll find the info here. Usually, bookings start in January. And I’m telling you, they going fast!
In a nutshell:
- $120 a night
- Lighting, electricity
- No stove, fridge
- Outdoor BBQ
- Fire pit
- Shared toilets and showers
- You can sleep up to 6 people
- No eating or cooking indoors because of bears
- Keep the place clean
- 15 minutes from Banff
- Pets are not allowed in the tents.
At the time of booking, there were no more sites available with a tent that gives a direct view of the lake. There is, however, a small footpath nearby where a short stroll brings you to admire the beauty of the lake.
At sunset, the light is just sublime. It sets around 10-10:30 p.m. in mid-June.
Tunnel Mountain Hiking – Banff
Located in the Bow River Valley, Tunnel Mountain was an astonishing surprise during my visit to Banff!
I arrived in the afternoon, just in time for the sun to make an appearance. A friend of mine recommended this little mountain with great views! It’s perfect little adventure after a plane ride and a 2-hour drive. Easy access for the whole family!
Despite its name, there is no tunnel here. Way back when, a tunnel was supposed to be built for a train to pass through. Eventually, another location was chosen, but the name remained.
In a nutshell:
- Height: 1,692 metres
- Gain in altitude: 260 meters
- 4.8 km round trip
- Time: 1h30 to 2h
- Price: free of charge
- Google Maps coordinates: 5CGQ+RX
Day 2 – Lake Louise
There was rain in the forecast for the second day. I was very much hoping the forecast was wrong. It rained all night. The thunder hit so hard that the OtentiK tent was shaking! In the morning, the rain slowly stopped. We decide that today was the day to visit the famous Lake Louise.
- Driving time from Two Jack lake: 1 hour
- Return to Banff village from Lake Louise: 45 min.
By leaving early and not being in peak tourist season yet, we were able to find parking on site. Otherwise, you’ll have to use the shuttle service. Read more details at this link.
Many tourists were already on site by 8 am. When we arrive, the first thing we saw was the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise hotel. Staying there costs about $500 a night.
We took a few pictures in front of the blue-grey lake through the crowd. Everyone was trying to take the best picture. A few clicks and we were done.
To avoid the crowds, I suggest you take a walk around the lake or simply go for a nice hike to see the lake from up high! Without doing a full hike, take a walk along the side of the lake. The view is magnificent, and there are fewer people.
Hiking in Little Beehive
During the day, we had sun, snow, sun, a little bit of clouds, snow…! I thought it was fantastic! Luckily, we were well prepared with our hats and mittens.
Here is the summary of our hike.
Initially, I had planned to hike the Plain of Six Glaciers. The weather was difficult to manage during this trip, and we had to adapt by going where the sun might peek through.
When we arrived at Lake Louise, some of the surrounding glaciers were in the clouds. It was hard to decide which path to take! The weather seems to change on a dime! So we headed to the side of the mountain where the weather seemed clearer. Little Beehive was a fabulous trail that took our breath away!
Our first stop on the way to the summit was Mirror Lake. At that moment, a little snow began to fall. I loved it! Much more enjoyable than the rain, and I had the foresight to bring a hat and mittens.
Plus, at this time of the year, always make sure you layer up and carry a pair of gloves with you. The temperature can change very quickly in the mountains.
We continued our ascent and the sky became a little bit clearer. In the distance we could see a few rain clouds. It wasn’t super sunny, but we had a clear view!
The view of Lake Louise is magnificent: we were happy with our choice of trail!
On the way back, we passed by a path leading to a Tea House. We sat on the terrace because there was no more room inside. Understandably the howling wind made the outside frigid!
From the terrace, we had a view of Lake Agnes and it started to snow.. horizontally!
We ordered:
- 1 liter of tea to warm up and take on the road in our reusable bottle,
- 1 tuna sandwich,
- 1 soup,
- 1 apple crisp
Of course, it wasn’t cheap, but the employees work hard to serve everyone. The food was excellent. The whole thing, with tip, cost us about $50. Please bring cash with you.
Moraine Lake
After this beautiful hike, we headed back to Banff, stopping off at Moraine Lake on the way. It’s very difficult to get a parking spot here in high season. The parking lot isn’t very big. People arrive as early as 5:00 a.m. to see the sunrise.
According to several blogs I read, and my personal experience Moraine Lake is even more impressive than Lake Louise. It’s hard to describe why. The colour, the proximity of the glaciers, the zenitude…
Lodging – Banff
Our most expensive night was in Banff. We spent a lovely night at the Bumpers Inn. We had a big, clean room.
It’s not a scenic place with a view of the mountains. But the price point made it a good alternative, because everything is more expensive here.
- Cost for one night: $180, taxes and fees included, booked via Booking.com
Day 3 – Kootenay National Park
The third day was the least exciting of our short stay in Western Canada. The rain started to fall. But it was just a little rain. The cloud ceiling was low.
We left at about 10:00 a.m. for a hike in Kootenay National Park. We didn’t see much on the road. We stopped at the Stanley Glacier trail, hoping for a change.
The clouds being too low, we decided to go somewhere else. I found a trail called Boom Lake Trail on my AllTrails app. It doesn’t have much elevation gain and it hardly rains on that side of the park. It’s a lovely, flat trail perfect for enjoying nature. The only lookout is at the end of the trail.
Boom Lake Trail
In a nutshell:
- Located on Highway 93 not too far from the Highway 1 intersection near Banff.
- 8 km round trip
- Height difference: 175 meters
- Easy
- Duration: I didn’t write anything down. Maybe 3 hours there and back.
- Not much of a view until we reached the lake
- Description from AllTrails
Takakkaw Falls – Yoho National Park
About a 55-minute drive from Boom Lake.
Also located in Yoho National Park, Takakkaw Falls is only 30 minutes away.
At 384 metres, it is one of the tallest in Canada. Its freefall is 254 meters! There is a short forest trail and its just a 10-minute walk. Not difficult at all.
Accommodation – Golden – British Columbia
For the last 3 nights, I chose the city of Golden, British Columbia.
I found its location strategic in relation to the national parks and the accommodations less expensive. I found a private room in an apartment on Airbnb.
So we stayed with Ray and his girlfriend. We had access to their kitchen and bathroom and we very much enjoyed it. It was my second experience of sharing a guest house and everything went really well. Ray is a helicopter pilot who rescues people in the mountains. He works a lot, so he’s not home very often.
- La Casa de Ray
- $250 for 3 nights – month of June
There’s a grocery store just a 2-minute drive away and my recommendation for a restaurant would be The Wolf Den.
The place has a cozy tavern vibe, and the food is really good. It’s an excellent place to eat a hamburger and try a good local beer. The fried onions are the best I’ve ever had!
Marion Lake
After our lunch, we were off to Marion Lake. A little less grandiose than the morning hike, but it was totally different. The view up there was well worth the effort.
Departure is from the same parking lot as the Great Glacier Trail. To save some steps, don’t head back to the parking lot. Have lunch at the intersection, where there’s a park warden. This is where the trails begin. Take the Abbott Ridge Trail to the lake.
- Round trip distance: 6.4 km from the parking lot. The trail itself is 5.2 km round trip.
- Duration: 2 hours 40 minutes
- Height difference: 530 meters
- Elevation: 1,700 metres
- Access fee 1 day/adult National Glacier Park: $7.80
Day 4 – Glacier National Park
The day before, I looked at the weather forecast and it looked like it was going to rain everywhere!
I was thinking of going for a nice hike in Yoho National Park. When we woke up, the weather looked great! On the other hand, when I looked at the weather in Yoho and Kootenay Park, it was raining. So I looked at the Glacier National Park weather… and there was sunshine! So, it looks like we’ll be heading to that park today! It wasn’t on our schedule at all for this trip.
And do you know what? This was my favourite part of the trip! It was a more than fantastic day!
Great Glacier Trail
Driving time Golden – Glacier National Park: 1 hr.
The Great Glacier Trail was THE surprise of our trip.
I hadn’t really planned on going to this park, and that would have been a big mistake on our part! The glaciers here are much less crowded than their counterparts, but very impressive! I’m already picturing myself going back!
Without further ado, here are the details of this fabulous day in British Columbia:
- 6.4 km round trip
- Elevation: 1,566 metres
- Height difference: 330 meters
- Time: 3 h 30 including breaks
- Glacier National Park
- Description from AllTrails
To reach the trailhead from the parking lot, there’s a flat section to walk through. You will see beautiful flowers and the glaciers that quietly take shape behind the trees.
Honestly, the forest part of the Great Glacier Trail is just phenomenal! It’s an enchanted forest!
When you leave the forest, you get to this place where you can admire the glaciers.
The ascent continues and we are getting closer and closer to the valley.
This place is remarkable! The end of the trail is the steepest part for about 500 meters. After this little stream, this is where you settle down to see the waterfall and the glaciers around you.
Truly an incredible trail!
Since we completed this hike in 1/2 day, why not do another!
Day 5 – Emerald Lake
Located in British Columbia, Yoho National Park is definitely worth a visit for its magnificent Emerald Lake! The local star is, of course, a victim of his own popularity. Arrive early, because parking is limited. There really are a lot of people around near the parking lot. Just walk the path around the lake to get away from the crowds.
Other interesting hikes are also available. Please visit the official website of the Yoho National Park to discover them.
We didn’t go around the lake, but we continued on our way to Yoho Pass. The path was impassable due to a river, so we turned back.
We were lucky enough to observe a couple of geese with their little baby! It was a truly exceptional moment!
My boyfriend had never heard the cry of the loon ‘live’ before. It reminded me of when I was little and my father took me fishing on a lake, very early in the morning. I remember that first goose I saw and heard!
We went back to Yoho Pass to get a magnificent view on the glaciers.
On the way back, we stopped for a moment at Natural Bridge. A short stop to see this natural bridge. I love the colour of the water!
To end this beautiful day, we decided to hike part of the Stanley Glacier Trail in Kootenay National Park.
We didn’t go through it all, but it gave us a good idea of what we missed on that rainy day!
It’s about a 30 minute-drive from Yoho to Stanley Glacier.
This concludes our trip to Western Canada! The sixth day served only to return to Quebec. Depending on your return time, it is probably possible to add something to your schedule.
Let’s move on to the budget part!
Budgeting for a Trip to Western Canada
Here’s how much our trip to Western Canada cost (and discover below the different credit cards recommended by milesopedia to save money on this type of trip):
| Expense | Cost |
|---|---|
| Plane ticket Montreal – Calgary (2 people) | 50,000 Aeroplan points and $350 |
| One night at Two Jack Lake | $120 |
| One night in Banff | $180 |
| 3 nights in Golden (Airbnb) | $250 |
| Car rental | $112 |
| Gasoline | $150 |
| Food** for | $450 |
| Park Canada access fee for 2 people (5 days) | $78 |
| Total for 2 people | $1,690 |
* Car rental with Route’s car: Yes you read that right, I can’t even believe it yet! I rented a few months before (November 2018), a two-door Rio. There was no Rio available, we got a Jeep. Originally, my online reservation was for $130. At the counter, it was cheaper!
**Food: We only ate out for supper. For lunches and dinners we did everything ourselves, having bought our groceries at Wal-Mart in Calgary. We also bought alcohol.
Here are credit cards recommended by milesopedia for this type of trip:
Below are several credit cards that may be useful for saving money when travelling in Western Canada.
Credit Cards for Groceries
Here are the different credit cards that milesopedia recommends for grocery shopping:
- 5 points per dollar with the Scotiabank Gold American Express® Card
- 5 points per dollar with the American Express Cobalt® Card
- 5 points per dollar with the National Bank World Elite Mastercard®.
Credit Cards for Gas
Here are the different credit cards that milesopedia recommends for gas:
- 3 points per dollar with the Scotiabank Gold American Express® Card
- 2 points per dollar with the American Express® Gold Rewards Card
- 2% cash back with Tangerine Money-Back Credit Card no annual fee
However, consider the gift card strategy to collect more points for this category!
Credit Cards for Restaurants and Bars
Here are the different credit cards milesopedia recommends for restaurants and bars:
- 5 points per dollar with the Scotiabank Gold American Express® Card
- 5 points per dollar with the American Express Cobalt® Card
- 5 points per dollar with the National Bank World Elite Mastercard®.
Credit Cards for Travel Insurance
Here are the different credit cards that milesopedia recommends for insurance for travel outside your province of residence:
- Up to 60 days of out-of-province medical coverage with the National Bank World Elite Mastercard®.
- Up to 10 days of out-of-province medical coverage with the National Bank Platinum MasterCard
Credit Cards for Airbnb
Here are the different credit cards that milesopedia recommended to apply points on bookings with Airbnb:
Credit Cards for Overnight Hotel Stays
Here are the different credit cards that milesopedia recommends for hotels:
- 5 points per dollar with the Marriott Bonvoy™ American Express® Card for bookings at Marriott’s hotels, with a nice welcome bonus
- 5 points per dollar with the Marriott Bonvoy™ Business American Express® Card for booking at Marriott hotels, with a nice welcome bonus
